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Pretty simple after you get through it once.


First, ensure the rifle is unloaded.  After removing the 2 retaining pins at the base of the stock, remove the stock.  You might need to give the stock a few "taps" to loosen it up the first time or 2.  There isnt much cleaning to this part, but I like to wipe the recoil spring and rod down with CLP and a rag just because im anal.  I dont think this will impact function either way, but I like to do it anyways.


Remove the pistol grip and trigger pack by simply pulling down and away.  Clean all moving parts inside with CLP and a toothbrush ensuring the moving parts are gunk free.  A lot of crud gets in here so pay attention to detail.  If you cant reach the deeper parts, use brake wash to get it out.  Oil with one light spray of CLP, recock the hammer and you are ready to reinstall.

Cleaning the inside of the reciever can be a bit of a challenge.  I like to hit it one time with brake wash to get what I can out immediately, then using a rag, CLP and a toothbrush.  Pay special attention to the fluting in the chamber and around the mouth of the barell.  This will impact function if its dirty so take your time.  Clean the inner walls of the chamber with the toothbrush, wipe it down with CLP and a rag and youre good to go.  I also like to clean the magazine well and the mag release tab with a toothbrush and CLP.  I cant stand a gritty mag well.


Remove the bolt carrier and body by turning the rifle up and pulling the charging handle back. It will fall out pretty fast so be careful.  Clean the bolt body with a toothbrush and CLP paying close atention to the grooves and lands in the bolt.  Also pay attention to the ejector and the face of the bolt.  A dirty bolt body is asking for trouble so take your time.

Clean the barell by running a patch or 2 saturated in windex through it if youve used European ammo.  Doesnt matter what the dealer tells you, always assume the ammo is corrosive.  Then run a .30 cal bore brush with Hoppes or CLP down it a few times.  Begin running patches saturated with CLP down the barell, alternating every 2 or 3 patches with a dry patch.  Every 6 or 8 patches, run the brush back down until your patches come back clean.  Lightly oil the barell with a CLP oiled patch and your ready to go.  A dirty barell will dramatically influence accuracy so take your time.


Remove the handgaurd by driving out the retaining pin, and pulling from the barrel end, remove the handgaurd.  Cleaning here is more maintenance than performance, but who wants a rusty gun?  Using a rag oiled with CLP, lubricate the barell surface and all metal parts, leaving a thin film of oil behind.


Bolt body removed from bolt carrier.  Remove the bolt from the body by holding the body upside down with the piston facing you. Turn the bolt head about 180 deg (or about 2 clicks) counterclockwise.  Pull the bolt head towards you and off the body.  Note the firing pin assembly is now exposed.  Clean with CLP and an old toothbrush.  Wipe it down with an oily rag and youre ready to reassemble.  Clean the firing pin assembly by turning the assembly until it comes out.  Wipe clean with CLP and replace.  Replacing the bolt head is a challenge the first time.  When you replace the bolt head, the rollers are extended and you cant get the bolt body back into the reciever.  To solve this problem, hold the bolt body upside down in your left hand with the piston facing you.  Replace the bolt head back over the firing pin and onto the body.  Insert a medium sized flat screwdriver head into the slot on the bottom (now top) of the bolt head.  Making sure the bolt head is on the body but not flush against it, turn the bolt head with the screwdriver 2 clicks back clockwise.  The bolt head should be firmly on the bolt body, but extended about 1/2 in away from the body with the rollers inside the bolt head.  Drop the bolt assembly back into the reciever.  You should hear a firm click as the bolt head seats firmly onto the body.  Sounds complicated, but it works.